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    August 12

    8.12 (I)西安华清池

     

    原来我们住的宾馆门口是一条极为热闹的早市,卖菜的、遛狗的、还有各式各样叫不上名字的早点小吃。给今天要先行离开的队友们留了条子,一人走了出来西安的大街上。慢慢的雨势渐大,空气中漫着一阵凉意。我在火车站买上两天后回成都的票,乘上站外的游字号大巴去临潼。

    这号车经过近十个站,包括华清池、地宫、皇陵和兵马俑几个景点。全程不过一个钟多点儿,车上解说推荐按到达的先后顺序浏览,这样比较容易坐车。于是十点左右,我先来到了华清池。

    讲到华清池,自然想起的是杨贵妃,是“红尘一骑妃子笑,无人知是荔枝来”。园子地图画得复杂,实际上建筑密度大,并不是多大的一处地方。

    一进园子就有导游迎上来。可俺是一向没有这个需求的,无论往哪个有名点儿上一站,两三分钟内自然会有一个导游带领队伍走过来,叽里呱啦的说上点啥典故,然后2分钟照相,小旗儿一挥,走人。我这边蹭蹭,那边听听,待到厌倦,便信步走到边缘没啥人气的小院子里,看那盛放的芙蓉、垂累的石榴、古松白腊、青石小道,微风细雨中,别有一番自在。

    这华清池能保留下来的古迹实际上并不多,外表上看去都是新的建筑,仅有的几个浴池遗址,实际上就是乱砖摆砌的大洞。吸引大家来此的,应该还是妃子美人的爱情故事吧。可惜大家都知道诵读“在天愿作比翼鸟,在地愿为连理枝”的名句,却极少有人将这阙诗的后半句念完:“天长地久有时尽,此恨绵绵无绝期”。

     

    呵,爱恨情仇终是空,不如独行。

     

    (插播:听到这么一段真实的对话。

    某甲:“长恨歌是谁唱的?”

    某乙:“刘德华?”)

     

    十二点出来,很容易便等到车往下一站去。本想去地宫,看到介绍上写着“仿建”二字,便失去了兴趣。那皇陵倒是车上的解说员大力推荐的,说一定要在兵马俑之前去看看,旅程才完整,不过车上没有一个人被她打动,当然也包括了我。反正不是来做历史考察的,与其走马观花,不如把时间集中起来看真正想看的,何必附庸风雅。

    (to be cont.

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    Angel Houwrote:
    亲爱的, 我是侯晏
     
    你的狗可真可爱啊
    Aug. 14

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